Sunday, January 29, 2017

NHCC Feb 13th Image Critique

NHCC Feb 13th Image Critique 

Back by popular demand! 
Our fourth annual image critique 

Send your images that need advice and/or improvement to Paul Peterson, they will be projected for so advice and suggestions

Images due by midnight on 2/11, images from each person will be projected before images from the same member.

Friday, January 27, 2017

note from Tom Brooks

At or last program night Tom Brooks gave a very informative lecture on "taking better photographs". This presentation filled a needed niche since most programs assume advanced photographers.

  Wandering Brooks Photography

Taking Better Photographs

Tom Brooks

If you like a photo you have taken, then it’s a good one and that’s all that matters.  Sometimes, all we want to do is record an occasion without caring whether the images look as good as similar more elegant photographs appearing in magazines.  Sometimes a photo opportunity comes and goes so fast there is not enough time to do anything but grab the camera and push the button.  At other times, you may have returned from a vacation filled with great landscapes or a trip to the zoo, flower show, wedding or sports event and been disappointed with what appear to be basic snapshots.  The following tips are provided to help you take more professional looking photographs when you can make the time and high-quality results are important to you. 

Rule #1 – Have FunIf it takes time to understand a particular technique, hang in there and remember Rule #1.

Rule #2 – Be Prepared

·         Think about specific photographic results you want to achieve on a particular outing.
·         Be sure to bring the equipment you need to accomplish your goals.
·         Bring cheat sheets to the photo shoot.
·         Take extra memory cards.  Whether it’s a vacation, a wedding or birthday gathering, you will need more memory cards with you in case the one in your camera becomes full or gets corrupted.
·         Charge your batteries before you go & at night while away.  Batteries have a nasty way of going dead at a moment which cannot be recreated.  Be aware that digital camera batteries go dead faster in cold weather.  Be sure you have enough charged backup batteries with you to finish out the day.  Fully charge your batteries at night so you don’t start out the next day hoping you can make it through the day with partially discharged batteries.

Great photographs take effort.  I met a professional photographer who traveled to China and stayed for a month to capture one particular image.  In my opinion, that one photograph was worth the effort he made.  Few of us will go to those lengths, but we need to have a familiarity with our photo equipment and know something about composition and lighting.  The idea is to capture an image that does not need a lot of editing to look decent. 

Smart phones vs “Real” Cameras – A huge percentage of people take all of their photos with a smart phone.  It’s convenient, but there is very little depth of field control with smart phones.  Accordingly, if you take some of your photos with a smart phone, some of the following techniques (i.e. composition & a stable platform) will apply.  If you take photos with a compact or DSLR camera, settings on the camera will come into play.  Compact cameras have more depth of field control than smart phones, but less than DSLRs.  DSLRs are the least convenient, but have the most depth of field control, larger files for larger prints, faster shutter speeds for moving objects and focus rings that can be moved around the frame.  Many people do not realize that the same aperture setting (i.e. F4) on a compact camera will result in a wider depth of field than when using a DSLR.   

“The Exposure Triangle” – Aperture, Shutter Speed & ISO

These three settings work together on every photo you take.   If you understand these three things and nothing else, you will take better photos.   Each of these settings can be adjusted by you.  It’s important to remember that after taking a series of photos in a particular situation, you should return all settings to the default position.  Failing to do this will leave adjusted settings in play which may be wrong for the next location.  You will decide what settings to change when you arrive at the next photo situation.
Aperture refers to how wide the lens is open.  The wider the lens is open, the more light that goes into the lens.  The widest aperture setting can vary depending on the lens, but the easy way to think about it is small aperture numbers (i.e. F2.8 or F3.5 refer to a large opening (less depth of field) and big aperture numbers (i.e. F18 or F22) refer to a little opening (more depth of field).

Shutter Speed refers to how fast the shutter opens and closes.  1/30 (of a second) is slow and 1/640 (of a second) is fast.

ISO is adjusted to provide more or less light.

If you always leave your camera on “Auto” where your camera chooses all settings, you will get a mix of pretty good photos and average looking snapshots.  To arrive at those better images you’re after, you need to control the settings.  Always start with your ISO low for the best resolution (i.e. between 80 & 200) and your exposure control set at zero to avoid accidental over exposure or under exposure.
Example 1 - Let’s say you want an image of a beautiful flower with the background blurred.
  • a) Choose Aperture Priority (usually A or Av on the camera dial).  If you are using a compact camera, choose the macro setting (if it has one).  The shutter speed will be chosen by the camera.  
  • b) select the widest aperture opening on the lens (i.e. F3.5).    

  • c) Put your camera on a tripod, get low and close to the flower, compose the shot placing the single focus ring on the flower only and fire away. 

  • If you are hand holding the camera (not on a tripod), and the photo you took is not sharp, your shutter speed may be too slow.  Adjust the ISO upward (i.e. to 500).  Your aperture opening will stay the same, but your shutter speed will increase and the image should be sharper.

    Example 2 – Let’s say you have come across a great landscape scene where you want both the flowers in the foreground and the mountains in the background to be sharp.

      a) Choose Aperture Priority.  

    b) Select a small aperture opening (i.e. F16).  This will keep things in focus from near to far.  

    c) Put your camera on a tripod, get closer to the ground so the foreground flowers will be in the frame, focus a third of the way into the scene, compose and fire away. 

    d) If some part of the photo is not sharp (i.e. foreground flowers), try adjusting your aperture to a higher number (i.e. F22) to get a wider depth of field and reshoot the scene.      

    If you are hand holding the camera (not on a tripod), and the overall photo is not sharp, your shutter speed may be too slow.  Adjust the ISO upward (i.e. to 500).  Your aperture opening will stay the same, but your shutter speed will increase and the image should be sharper.  The downside of increasing ISO is that the more the ISO is increased, the more noise (grainy look) that will be visible in the image.

    Example 3 – Let’s say you are at a little league game, race or picnic with lots of movement. If you want to freeze movement (i.e. a swinging bat), do the following:

     a) Choose Shutter Priority (usually S or Tv on the camera dial).  

    b) Select a shutter speed of at least 1/500 or 1/640.  The aperture opening will be chosen by the camera. 

    c) Depress the button half way and see if there is a “lo” message or camera shake image.  Seeing one of those messages means that even though the aperture is wide open, there is not enough light available for the shutter speed you have chosen to record a good exposure.  To solve the problem, keep turning your ISO to a higher number until the message goes away.  

    d) Compose and fire away.   

    Exposure Control – There will be situations when you have done all of the right things with the settings (Aperture, Shutter Speed & ISO), but the scene has so much contrast there are light areas or dark areas with lost detail.  A histogram with no space on the left indicates lost shadow detail.  No space on the right side of the histogram indicates lost detail in the highlight areas.

    To see more detail in overexposed light areas of the image, turn the exposure control dial into the minus numbers (1/3 of a stop at a time).  Take another shot and check the photo on the camera’s LCD.  Keep doing that until the light area of the photo has more detail.  For dark areas with lost detail, turn the exposure control into the plus numbers (1/3 of a stop at a time).  Note that you must choose to fix light or dark issues; not both.  After you are finished with this procedure, return the exposure control to the zero position so you do not accidentally over or under expose the next series of photos.             

    Taking Sharper Photos

    Many recent cameras and lenses have a stabilization feature built in.  In bright light, that may be enough to achieve a sharp hand held image.  In low light (inside a dark church or at dawn or dusk for those landscape images), hand holding can often produce soft results. 

    Focal Length vs Shutter Speed - If you are using a zoom lens, any movement the camera makes will be magnified.  If you are hand holding the camera, try to be sure your shutter speed is at least as fast as the focal length number.  For example, if you are shooting at 135mm (focal length), try to be sure your shutter speed is at a higher number such as 1/200 (of a second).

    Use a tripod – Start using a tripod more often and you will see a higher percentage of sharp photos.  Aside from full size tripods which you can use locally, there are monopods, lightweight collapsible travel tripods available that will fit in carry-on luggage and desktop models you can carry in a pocket or purse

    NOTE – Always make an effort to take landscape photos on a tripod.  That is because landscape images always look better when taken early or late in the day when the light is dimmer and less harsh.  Low light requires longer shutter speeds which will make many hand held photos appear out of focus.

    Use a Cable Release – A cable release helps you avoid the camera movement associated with pushing the shutter button.  If you don’t have a cable release with you, try taking the photo in self- timer mode which also avoids movement related to pushing the shutter button.  

    Composition Tips

    Make it your own – When you come across a good looking scene, don’t just whip out your camera, bang out a shot and move on.  Think about it.  Move around.  Be patient.    Would the shot be more interesting from a higher or lower position or from thirty yards to the left?  Try different angles of the same shot.  Try portrait and landscape orientation.   When you get home, you’ll be glad you did.

    Look around the frame for distractions – Before you push the shutter button, check all around the frame for items that should not be in the photo.  Keep moving around until the offending items are gone or minimized before pulling the trigger.  Getting this right at the time you take the shot reduces the time you will need to fix it with editing software.
    Consider the Rule of Thirds – That principle refers to placing the main subject or horizon line near intersections of vertical and horizontal lines at 1/3 points in the frame.

    Place your central figure off center – Avoid the bull’s eye effect for most photos.

    Outside background for people photos – Keep it as simple as possible.  The eye is drawn to a busy background instead of the subject.  You may also want to think about using a larger aperture to help blur the background.

    Positioning Moving Things – Anything that is moving (people, animals, cars, planes) should be moving into the frame with room for them to keep moving.  Otherwise, they look like they are about to crash into the side of the frame they are moving toward.

    General Tips

    Standard photography rules are made to be broken in some situations, but these techniques will normally help you get a better image.

    Assume One Chance to capture an image.  It may be gone or look different in the future.

    Snow Scenes – To keep snow scenes from looking grey, using the exposure control dial, increase your exposure up to one full stop.

    Fill the frame – to show detail & eliminate unnecessary items.

    Portray people and small groups performing an activity – Consider showing people doing something where they are looking away from the camera vs posing them in “tin soldier” formation staring at you.  This amounts to making a posed shot look like a candid shot.  Get as close as possible to the subject(s) to capture more detail involving the subjects and avoid unnecessary clutter in the frame. Your subjects may not cooperate easily at the time you take the photo, but they will always appreciate a good photo later.

    Take “people” pictures in the shade or in cloudy conditions – By doing this, you will avoid harsh contrasty light and there is less chance that your subjects will be squinting.  If you are inside a house, position your subject near a window, but not in direct light.  This can be very pleasant lighting where there is little contrast resulting in better facial expressions with no squinting.

    Eyes in focus – Whether it’s people or animals, be sure you get the eyes in focus.  That means being sure the focus ring in the frame is on the eyes or something on exactly the same plane as the eyes.  Some cameras have a face recognition feature which will help ensure that the eyes are sharp. 

    Silhouette Issues – When you take a photo where there is too much light in the background, the main subject can turn into a silhouette.  One way to address this is to “force” the flash to operate when you retake the photo.  On a point & shoot camera, scroll through the flash options using the jagged arrow button.  On a DSLR, pop open your on-camera flash or turn on the flash attached to your hot shoe.  Even in normal light conditions, many outdoor photos of people look better using this forced flash technique.

    Capture landscapes early and late to avoid the harsh light of mid-day.

    Take a lot of photos – The chance of achieving your goal increases with the number of pictures taken.  The more you take, the better you get.  In the digital age, cost is not an issue.

    Back up your memory cards while on vacation or during important photo shoots – Many photographers take a laptop or portable external hard drive on vacations and photo shoots.  That allows for a second copy of cherished images to be saved and helps to protect against lost or corrupt memory cards.  When you get home, be sure you have two or three backup copies in separate locations for all images you care about. 

    Traveling by plane – Keep your camera equipment with you when traveling by plane. Checked camera gear may not be there when you get to the destination.  That means you must be selective about what camera equipment you take on the trip.

    Editing - Many photographers do some editing of their images.  Some camera club members spend many hours editing images that will be placed into competition.  How much time you choose to spend on editing is up to you.

    Never stop learning – If your best image was taken over a year ago, you need to work harder at improving your photography skills.

    Always take your camera

    Wednesday, January 25, 2017

    Monochrome Definition

    Monday's competition included a sepia toned image with selective coloring of the RWB flag. Please note that selective coloring is not considered monochrome. 

    PSA Monochrome Definition 
    An image is considered to be Monochrome only if it gives the impression of having no color (i.e. contains only shades of grey which can include pure black and pure white) OR it gives the impression of being a greyscale image that has been toned in one color across the entire image. (For example by Sepia, red, gold, etc.) A greyscale or multi-colored image modified or giving the impression of having been modified by partial toning, multi toning or by the inclusion of spot coloring does not meet the definition of monochrome and shall be classified as a Color Work.

    Converting to Monochrome....

    disclaimer, all images from Google images...

    Monochrome simply means ‘of one color’

    This image would be black and white, as the pixels are EITHER black or white, there are no "tones" 
    Image result for monochrome vs black and white photography
    Very rarely in photography do we want  a truly black and white image, silhouettes can be an obvious exception. Usually we want our image to be various shades of black. 

    Some camera can capture a monochrome image SOOC, but I prefer the control of using the BW adjustment layer

    Below are a few different ways (Faststone, Picassa, PS, Elements) to convert images to black and white or monochrome. monochrome should only have one color, white and then shades of one color, shades of gray is the most common (BW) but shades of tan (sepia) or blue or another color can be done as well. 

    There are plugins (Nik SilverEfex and Topaz BW effects, but please note that some of these plugin presets yield color, not monochrome images. Monochrome images typically have color values that are the same for R G and B. You can view info in Photoshop and use the eye dropper and see if your image has the same 

    A VERY good way to convert is using the black and white adjustment layer in PS, it is non-destructive and gives you a lot of control over your final image. 

    1. black and white adjustment layer ***
    Available in Photoshop CS 3 onwards, the black and white adjustment layer gives you all the control of the channel mixer and twin hue/saturation techniques via six colour sliders. But the most exciting feature is it's ‘targeted adjustment tool'. With this tool you can stroke tones in your photo to make them lighter or darker. It's an intuitive and precise conversion technique.

    Photshop CS 3 and onward, nondestructive:
    1. Click the Black White icon  in the Adjustments panel.
      1.      OR Layer --> New Adjustment Layer -->  Black and White
    2. Click ‘OK'. The Black and White toolbox appears:
      1. black and white conversion photoshop
    3. Move the six color sliders right or left to brighten or darken the respective tones in the photo. You can also choose from from the presets in the drop down menu at the top.
    4. Move the cursor over the photo and hold the left mouse button down. The cursor changes, indicating that the targeted adjustment tool is activated. With the mouse button held down, move the mouse to the right to lighten the tones under the cursor, or left to darken them.
    5. Click ‘OK' when you're done.

    2. Graysale 
    The simplest black and white conversion method, converting to grayscale discards all the color information in the photo. 

    This is destructive, it is easy but I do not recommend this method. 

    Photoshop CS 3 and onward:
    Image --> Mode -->  Grayscale
    Click ‘Discard'

    Photoshop Elements:
    Image --> ; Mode --> ; Grayscale
    Click ‘OK'
    Pros: Quick and easy.

    Cons: You have no control over the conversion. Destructive. !

    3. Hue/Saturation 
    This method gives exactly the same result as converting to grayscale. The only advantage is that it's available as an adjustment layer, and can be used as part of a non-destructive editing process.

    Photoshop CS 3 and Photoshop Elements:

    Layer --> New Adjustment Layer -->  Hue/Saturation
    Click ‘OK'
    Move the saturation slider all the way to the left (-100) and press ‘OK'

    Pros: Quick and easy; can be applied as an adjustment layer in both Photoshop CS 3 and Elements 6.

    Cons: You have no control over the conversion.

    4. LAB Color Method (Destructive)
    This technique converts your photo from RGB mode to Lab mode, which records the brightness and color values separately, then discards the color information leaving a black and white image. It's not available in Photoshop Elements.

    Photoshop CS 3 and later:

    Image --; Mode -- Lab Color
    Go to the Channels window if it's already open (if not go to Window > Channel) and select the Lightness channel
    Image -- Mode --  Grayscale
    Click ‘OK'
    Pros: Gives a better black and white conversion than the convert to grayscale and hue/saturation methods.

    Cons: Destructive editing process that doesn't give you much control.

    5. BandW Conversion in Picasa
    Open image in Picasa
    Select the “Effects” tab for BandW
    Click on BandW
    Use the “Undo” button at bottom of every screen to go back, or use Picture; Undo All Edits
    Select the “Tuning” tab to adjust Shadows, Highlights of Fill Light (Zoom in to enlarge view)
    Select the “Basic Fixes” tab to auto-adjust Contrast or to Crop
    File; Save places original in a new sub-folder and saves the altered image in original folder with
    the same name
    To Resize for Digital Submission: File > Export Picture to Folder > Select Folder Resize 1024
    OR 768; Image Quality “Maximum”; Export
    Picasa creates a subfolder with the resized image

    6. BandW Conversion in FastStone
    Open in FastStone Image Viewer
    Press Enter to toggle Large View on/off
    On left side of screen, select Grayscale or Sepia
    On left, select Enhance Colors to adjust Contrast, Tint, & Brightness
    On left, select Crop Board to crop

    For Printing: Save As; (Picture Name_BW.jpg); Quality 100
    For Digital Submission: On left: Resize/Resample; Standard > 1024x768
    Save file, 100 quality

    Tuesday, January 24, 2017

    Feb 13th Image Critique

    NHCC Feb 13th Image Critique 

    Back by popular demand! 
    Our fourth annual image critique 

    Send your images that need advice and/or improvement to Paul Peterson, they will be projected for so advice and suggestions

    Images due by midnight on 2/11, images from each person will be projected before images from the same member.

    Monday, January 16, 2017

    NHCC - photo competition images due Friday.

    NHCC - photo competition images due Friday. We have friendly photography competitions once a month (8 times a year, plus an "End of Year" competition). Reminder we are also starting our meetings at 7pm

    Please refer to the NHCC handbook for questions, please download it and read it, it is your responsibility to know the rules. The New Haven Camera Club expects that its membership will adhere to the highest ethical standards when complying with its competition rules. It is especially important that all photographs entered into competitions be the exclusive work of the maker (except for commercially made prints or digital photographs scanned from a slide original allowed by the rules). Highlights:
    • All aspects of the image must be taken by the photographer (Clipart, Textures, etc. are NOT permitted).
    • Images of a similar nature may not be submitted again once that image has won a ribbon.
    • The winning same image (or a very similar rendition taken at the same time) may not be submitted into a different competition or in a different season.
    • Please note that there are NO makeups
    • Please note that there no way to email images late if you have problems, so we urge you please do NOT to wait until the last minute to submit your photographs.
    • Setups (images where someone else set up the composition, or you "plug inot" lighting at a conference or workshop) are ONLY allowed in Class B
    • We compete images in the following categories once a month (typically the 4th Monday of the month). Please see our handbook which contains the rules and instructions for competing your images.
      • digital (open category)
      • digital (assigned subject)
      • creative/image artistry 
      • Monochrome 
      • Image Critique (no scores, just feedback, especially useful for new members, or new techniques, open to ALL)
    Upload your images to the monthly contest before the competition deadline (competitions are the fourth Monday, deadline is the Friday before the Monday competition).

    There is a one time registration with the Photo Contest Pro system in order to be able to upload your images for competition. For more information or questions contact Paul Peterson

    Instructions for uploading competition images

    • Please do not wait until late Friday night to discover that you need help.
    • If you have questions please email Paul  (individual members should NOT contact Jack, the author of the software that club uses, Jack will be contacted by Lisa or Paul only. 

    Number of entries per contest:

    • PRINTS: Each member may enter a maximum of 2 prints into the "member's choice" photo display and contest each month.
      • Prints (must be turned in by 7:15). Friendly display and member's choice award.
    • OPEN SUBJECT Each member may enter a maximum of 2 photographs into the open electronic competition in each of the 8 contests, for a year's total of 16 open electronic entries.
      • Class A
      • Class B
      • FYI, there is no need (and even a slight disadvantage) to choosing an assigned subject image for the monthly OPEN caetegory. OPEN means naything goes. 

      • ASSIGNED SUBJECT Each member may enter a maximum of 1 photograph into assigned subject in each of the 8 contests, for a year's total of 8 assigned subject entries.
        • Class A
        • Class B
        • Please note that the electronic image assigned subject competition is in addition to the regular OPEN subject (anything goes) monthly competition.

      • MONOCHROME Each member may enter a maximum of 1 photograph into image monochrome in each of the 8 contests, for a year's total of 8 image artistry entries
        • Class A
        • Class B
      • CREATVE Each member may enter a maximum of 1 photograph into image artistry competition in each of the 8 contests, for a year's total of 8 image artistry entries.
      • CRITIQUE Each member may enter a maximum of 1 photograph into Image Critique in each of the 8 monthly contests, for a year's total of 8.
      Cumulative Score is the sum total of all print or electronic photograph scores to date. At the end of the competition year the highest 6 - 12 scores of each maker (depending on the category) are summed to determine the cumulative score. Makers can compete in more than one category and can have cumulative scores in each category. These points will count toward an award for highest cumulative point total for the year presented at the Annual Dinner.

      To be ranked in class B electronic photographs, the maker must have submitted at least 10 photographs (8 contests times 2 photographs per contest and you can have up to 6 zeros).

      To be ranked in class A electronic photographs, the maker must have submitted a total of 12 photographs (8 contests times 2 photographs per contest and you can have up to 4 zeros).

      To be ranked in image artistry, the maker must have submitted a total of 6 photographs (8 contests times 1 photograph per contest, two zeros allowed).

      To be ranked in assigned subject, the maker must have submitted a total of 6 photographs (8 contests times 1 photograph per contest, two zeros allowed)

      To be ranked in monochrome subject, the maker must have submitted a total of 6 photographs (8 contests times 1 photograph per contest, two zeros allowed).

      Saturday, January 7, 2017

      Tom Brooks is presenting "Taking Better Photographs" Monday Jan 9th

      Tom Brooks is presenting "Taking Better Photographs" Monday Jan 9th, usual 7pm time, usual place, Whitney Center Hamden

      Bring your camera

      This 90-minute program subject matter is principally directed toward less experienced club members who want to get a better handle on camera functions and how to capture better images.  More experienced photographers will also pick up some reminders from this talk that can be helpful to them, but the main thrust is to help the members who joined to get past taking snapshots. There is virtually no discussion about editing.  What I normally suggest is that inexperienced members bring their camera. Then experienced & inexperienced Canon people can sit together and Nikon experienced & inexperienced people can sit together.  That way, inexperienced members can get hands-on help from experienced members who understand that brand when a particular point about a camera mode is being made.

      Tom will have a five-page handout which can be placed on the club website following the presentation if you are interested in doing that.

      Tom Brooks

      Wandering Brooks Photography
      Tom is an award-winning photographer who started taking photographs with a diminutive non-adjustable box camera in the 1950’s to record events involving family and friends. Although Tom enjoys photo shoots that add his interpretation of famous subjects, he derives the most satisfaction from capturing and sharing images which have not been previously published in any form. His love of the outdoors and the time he has spent in remote locations is the thread which runs through much of his photography. Tom’s hope is that when someone views one of his images, they feel something. That feeling might be one of wanting to go where the photo was taken or a sense of nostalgia,
      patriotism or happiness. If that happens, Tom feels that he has done his job

      Tuesday, January 3, 2017

      New Haven Camera Club Holiday Party December 12, 2016

      New Haven Camera Club Holiday Party

      December 12, 2016 6pm

      Whitney Center 200 Leeder Hill Drive Hamden, CT

      Please join us for good food, good company, and entertainment (mini slide shows)

      The cost of the buffet meal is $33.00
      Mail to Paul Peterson 18 Richill Road Branford, CT 06405


      DEADLINE is no later than Wednesday, December 7, so send your check right away.

      Garden Salad with choice of dressing
      Chicken Florentine
      Roast Beef Brisket with Mushroom Gravy
      Eggplant Parmesan
      Baked Ziti with Marinara Sauce
      Vegetable Medley
      Soda, Lemonade, Coffee, Tea (no alcohol, Note: Because of insurance concerns, alcohol will not be served and cannot be brought in. We will have a great time without it!).

      This year we will again be participating in a charity called Child First in lieu of a grab bag. This organization helps over 1,000 children ages 0-5 in the Greater Bridgeport area who need assistance with mental, physical, and developmental conditions.

      If you would like to donate an unwrapped toy or monetary gift, please bring it the night of the party. The club has been very generous in the past with this charity. Thank you.

      A special thank you to Ann and Art Yost for organizing this for us and hand delivering our gifts directly to Child First.

      Below are a few ideas of types of toys which Child First can use as gifts for the young children (birth to 6) they serve.  

      A financial contribution can also be made.  Please make the check out to "Child First".

      simple wooden puzzles
      duplo blocks
      trucks, race cars
      farm set, farm animals
      toy food, dishes

      Thanks to all for your support!

      We look forward to seeing everyone at the Holiday Party for a great evening. Family and friends are welcome.